The Topeka Keyhole Dress Free Sewing Pattern

Meet the Topeka Keyhole Dress, a study in quiet confidence and modern polish. Designed in a luxurious ponte knit from the Papilio Collection, this dress blends structure with stretch for a fit that feels as good as it looks. With over 30 colors available in this same ponte,  the Topeka Dress invites you to make it entirely your own, whether you lean classic, bold, or somewhere in between.

The silhouette is clean and commanding, anchored by a distinctive front neckline that pairs a subtle, flirty keyhole with a high criss cross collar. It is a detail that draws the eye without raising its voice. Long sleeves, a smooth invisible zipper closure, and a midi-length hem keep the look refined, while the knit fabric skims the body with ease and comfort.

The Topeka Keyhole Dress is all about versatility through intention. Shorten the sleeves and hem for a fresh, daytime dress with spring energy, or lengthen the skirt to lean into more formal territory. As written, it excels in power dressing. This is the kind of dress you reach for when you want to feel composed and capable, whether you are walking into a job interview, leading a presentation, or stepping into any room where presence matters. Tailored yet comfortable, striking yet restrained, the Topeka Keyhole Midi Dress is confidence, sewn.

Essential Materials & Sizing Guide for the Topeka Keyhole Dress

Continue reading for a breakdown of what knowledge and materials you need for creating your very own keyhole dress! We’ve got you covered with the recommended materials we used—if you want to follow along exactly—as well as a curated list of alternative fabric type recommendations if you want to customize your own version. The Topeka Keyhole Dress free sewing pattern download includes technical drawings for seam and silhouette visibility, plus a size chart to help you find your perfect fit!

Purchase Products Used Below:

Quantities indicated are for sewing a size small keyhole dress* Toggle the ‘SHOP THIS LOOK’ box to find quantity estimates for other sizes.

• 2.5 yards of Stretch Ponte Knit – Ocean Blue – Papilio Collection
• 1 each of Gutermann Sew All Thread 100m – 245 Jay Blue
• 1 each of Invisible Zipper 24″ by YKK – 918 Dusted Blue
• 1 each of Dritz 14 Black Hooks & Eyes – Size 0
• MDF496 – Topeka Keyhole Dress Sewing Pattern (Free download below!)

Additional Products Used:

• Stitch Witchery

*Quick Tip! The ‘SHOP THIS LOOK’ box defaults to full-yard quantities. To order an exact half-yard quantity for any fabric, simply use the decrease quantity button (-) to subtract by the half yard. Then click “ADD TO CART” to add all materials to your cart.

(Our system can only display full-yard quantities initially.)

Alternative Fabric Type Recommendations:

The Topeka Keyhole Dress sewing pattern is best suited for medium weight knit/stretch fashion fabrics. Explore other fabric types or colors from our featured collections for your keyhole dress with the links below.

• • Stretch Fabric
  • Velour

Download Your Free Sewing Pattern

Submit your name and email in the form below to receive the download link for the Topeka Keyhole Dress free sewing pattern directly in your inbox. Mood Sewciety Patterns will send your free download link via email with the subject line: ‘Your Free Download from Mood Sewciety – The Topeka Keyhole Dress’ (in PDF format for A4 and letter-size printing).

© MoodFabrics.com / MoodSewciety.com – Mass production, resale, or distribution of this pattern in any form is strictly prohibited.

Find Your Perfect Fit

The Topeka Keyhole Dress Sizing Guide is based on the suggested design & wearing ease for this style. You can also choose the size according to your desired finished garment measurements, blending between sizes as needed. Measure the printed patterns to make sure the dimensions are according to the desired fitting and adjust if needed before cutting the fabric. For best results, sew a test garment in a similar fabric to adjust your pattern.

Measurements may vary after adjustments. If using non-stretch fabrics, reference the approximate finished garment measurements chart to choose your size.

Note: Always read all the instructions before cutting the fabric!

How to Sew The Topeka Keyhole Dress

The instructions provided below are designed to guide you through sewing the Topeka Keyhole Dress from start to finish.

3 Tips for Sewing with Ponte

⇒ Here’s a secret: you don’t necessarily have to use a stretch stitch when sewing with stretch fabrics. For this set, I used a regular straight stitch with a 1.5 millimeter stitch length and slightly stretched the fabric while I was sewing. This makes it so that the stitches stretch slightly with the fabric.

⇒ Ponte can hold a press when you iron it, so make sure you’re ironing all your seams open on medium heat between steps.

⇒ When cutting out the pattern, make sure that the direction in which the fabric has the most stretch is oriented horizontally on the body, meaning the pants and shirt shoulder stretch the most from side to side, not from bottom to top.

Pattern Pieces & Fabric Cuts Needed

• (A) BACK
  • FABRIC – CUT 2 MIRRORED
• (B) FRONT
  • FABRIC – CUT 1
• (C) FRONT NECK EXTENSION
  • FABRIC – CUT 1
• (D) SKIRT BACK
  • FABRIC – CUT 2 MIRRORED
• (E) SKIRT FRONT
  • FABRIC – CUT 1 ON FOLD
• (F) SLEEVES
  • FABRIC – CUT 2 MIRRORED

Sew with a 1/2″ seam allowance for all seams unless otherwise specified.

Step 1 

NECKLINE EXTENSION

1. Line up the front neck extension piece with the notch on the top front, right sides together.
2. Pin and sew along the edges with the notch.
3. Open the seam and press it flat.

Step 2

HEM NECKLINE

1. Clip the curved edge of the keyhole neckline to allow it to stretch while hemming.
2. Pin and press the raw edges of the keyhole opening towards the wrong side of the dress.
3. Topstitch around the keyhole opening.

Step 3

SHOULDERS

1. Place the back pieces right sides together with the front top with the shoulders lined up.
2. Pin and sew the shoulder seams.

Step 4

BACK NECKLINE

1. Note: In the photos below, the point of the scissors is pointed at the seams you’re going to sew in this step.
2. For this step, you want to make sure your pieces are overlapping properly because we’re going to sew them into place now. Make sure that the top front neckline is overlapping the front neck extension before you start pinning.
3. With the top front overlapping the front neck extension, pin the overhanging collar fabric to the back neckline, right sides together, as shown in the first photo below (while sewing this part of the neckline, if you get confused, just remember that the front right collar goes to the back left neckline while the front left collar goes to the back right neckline, all while making sure that the front collar with the seam on it goes under the front collar without the seam).
4. Sew the top front collar to the back neckline (in this photo, the top front collar piece is on the left and is overlapping the collar extension on the right. The top front collar piece is sewn to the top back piece on the right).
5. Repeat the same process but with the front neck extension piece (the front neck extension should be under the top front. Once it is tucked under, you want to pin and sew it right sides together with the back left neckline).
6. After the collars are attached to the back neckline, hem the tops of the collars the same way you hemmed the keyhole opening.

Step 5

SIDE SEAMS

1. Pin and sew the side seams of the dress together.

Step 6

SLEEVES

1. Fold the sleeves in half right sides together.
2. Pin and sew the sleeve inseams.
3. Place the sleeves inside of the bodice, right sides together, and pin the sleeve caps into the armscyes.
4. Sew the sleeves into the armscyes.

Step 7

SKIRT

1. Place the back skirt pieces on top of the front skirt piece, right sides together with the sides lined up.
2. Pin and sew the side seams of the skirt.
3. Open the side seams and press them flat.

Step 8

WAISTLINE

1. Place the top and skirt right sides together with the waistlines lined up.
2. Line up the side seams of the skirt with the side seams of the bodice.
3. Pin and sew the top to the skirt.

Step 9

INVISIBLE ZIPPER

1. Insert an invisible zipper into the center back opening of the dress by sewing the right sides of each side of the back opening to the right sides of the zipper.
2. Make sure the collar seams and waistline seams line up on either side of the zipper. Pin before you sew.
3. Pin and sew the center back seam under the zipper to close the back of the dress.

Step 10

HOOK AND EYE

1. Hand sew a hook and eye closure to the back neckline of the dress at the top of the zipper.

Step 11

HEMS

1. Fold and press ½ inch hems into the bottom of the dress and the openings of the sleeves.
2. Use stitch witchery hem tape to create blind hems on the bottom of the dress and the openings of the sleeves. Insert the stitch witchery into the folded hem, then iron the fabric with the tape under it to melt the tape and secure the hem.

Sewing Success: The Completed Topeka Keyhole Dress

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We hope you had as much fun sewing this keyhole pattern as we did! As always, we want to hear from you—share your thoughts and comments below and let us know where you’ll be wearing the Topeka Keyhole Dress free sewing pattern!

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