The Joplin Jacket and Pasadena Pencil Skirt Free Sewing Patterns

Meet your new favorite fall duo, the Joplin Jacket and Pasadena Pencil Skirt. 

The Joplin Jacket brings the drama in the best possible way. Made from a soft distressed faux leather from the Yaya Han Cosplay collection, it feels smooth like suede but shines gently in the light. The jacket features welt pockets, snap closures, and an elastic waistband that gives this edgy piece both style and comfort. It has the relaxed confidence of a vintage motorcycle jacket with a polished, contemporary finish.

The Pasadena Pencil Skirt is the kind of piece you will reach for again and again. It is made from stretch cotton dobby with a subtle vertical rib texture that feels soft yet structured. The silhouette is classic and flattering, fitted but comfortable, with a deep slit in the back for movement. With only five pattern pieces, it is quick to make and even easier to wear.

When styled together, the jacket and pencil skirt create a bold and daring look. The combination of soft cotton and textured faux leather makes for a perfectly balanced outfit for the transitional autumn weather that works for countless indoor and outdoor occasions. Each piece stands beautifully on its own, yet together they tell a story of comfort, craftsmanship, and confidence.

Challenge yourself with the metallic hardware and complex tailoring of the Joplin Jacket, then take it easy with the simple Pasadena Pencil Skirt in a fabric choice that speaks to your own personal aesthetic.

Essential Materials & Sizing Guides for the Joplin Jacket & Pasadena Pencil Skirt

Continue reading for a breakdown of what knowledge and materials you need for creating your very own jacket and pencil skirt! We’ve got you covered with the recommended materials we used—if you want to follow along exactly—as well as a curated list of alternative fabric type recommendations if you want to customize your own version. The Joplin Jack & Pasadena Pencil Skirt free sewing pattern download includes technical drawings for seam and silhouette visibility, plus a size chart to help you find your perfect fit!

Purchase Products Used Below:

Quantities indicated are for sewing a size small jacket and pencil skirt. Toggle the ‘SHOP THIS LOOK’ box to find quantity estimates for other sizes.

• 3 yards of Yaya Han Soft Stretch Faux Leather/Pleather – Distressed Dark Brown with Brushed Backing – Cosplay Collection
• 3 yards of Bemberg Lining – Chocolate Brown – Lucidum Collection
• 1 each of Dritz Heavy Duty Snap Fastener Kit with Tools – Nickel – 7 Sets
• 1 each of Mood Exclusive Italian Brown and Silver T5 Open End Metal Zipper – 27.5″
• 1 each of Gutermann Sew All Thread 250m – 596 Dark Brown
• 1.5 yards of Vertical Ribs Creped Stretch Cotton Dobby – Beige
• 1 each of Invisible Zipper 24″ by YKK – 085 Beige
• 1 each of Gutermann Sew All Thread 250m – 506 Sand
• MDF468 & MDF469  – The Joplin Jacket and Pasadena Pencil Skirt Sewing Patterns (Free download below!)

Alternative Fabric Type Recommendations:

The Joplin Jacket and Pasadena Pencil Skirt sewing pattern is best suited for medium weight fashion fabrics. Explore other fabric types or colors from our featured collections for your jacket and pencil skirt with the links below.

• Denim
• Canvas
• Corduroy
• Coating

Download Your Free Sewing Patterns

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© MoodFabrics.com / MoodSewciety.com – Mass production, resale, or distribution of this pattern in any form is strictly prohibited.

Find Your Perfect Fit

The Joplin Jacket and the Pasadena Pencil Skirt Sizing Guide is based on the suggested design & wearing ease for this style. You can also choose the size according to your desired finished garment measurements, blending between sizes as needed. Measure the printed patterns to make sure the dimensions are according to the desired fitting and adjust if needed before cutting the fabric. For best results, sew a test garment in a similar fabric to adjust your pattern.

Note: Always read all the instructions before cutting the fabric!

How to Sew The Joplin Jacket and The Pasadena Pencil Skirt

The instructions provided below are designed to guide you through sewing the Joplin Jacket and the Pasadena Pencil Skirt from start to finish.

2 Tips for Sewing with Faux Leather

⇒ Do not under any circumstances iron this fabric. It WILL melt, and if it doesn’t melt, it will likely warp or detach the shiny part from the soft inside part. If you want certain seams to lay flat, either put them under something heavy or use clips to get them to stay in place.

⇒ If you’re not confident about sewing this pattern mostly right the first time, I recommend making a muslin mockup first. This is because both faux and real leather will have visible holes in them if you sew them then remove the stitches. Go slow, read and reread the directions carefully, and double check your work before sewing and seam ripping.

Pattern Pieces & Fabric Cuts Needed

JOPLIN JACKET

• (A) BACK SIDE
  • FABRIC – CUT 2 MIRRORED
  • LINING – CUT 2 MIRRORED
• (B) BACK CENTER
  • FABRIC – CUT 1 ON FOLD
  • LINING – CUT 1 ON FOLD
• (C) FRONT SIDE
  • FABRIC – CUT 2 MIRRORED
  • LINING – CUT 2 MIRRORED
• (D) FRONT YOKE
  • FABRIC – CUT 2 MIRRORED
  • LINING – CUT 2 MIRRORED
• (E) FRONT CENTER
  • FABRIC – CUT 2 MIRRORED
  • LINING – CUT 2 MIRRORED
• (F) INNER ZIPPER PLACKET
  • FABRIC – CUT 2
• (G) OUTER BUTTON PLACKET
  • FABRIC – CUT 2
• (H) BACK WAISTBAND
  • FABRIC – CUT 2 ON FOLD
• (I) FRONT WAISTBAND
  • FABRIC – CUT 4
• (K) BACK SLEEVE
  • FABRIC – CUT 2 MIRRORED
  • LINING – CUT 2 MIRRORED
• (L) CUFFS
  • FABRIC – CUT 4
• (M) COLLAR
  • FABRIC – CUT 2 ON FOLD
• (N) POCKET BAG
  • LINING – CUT 2 MIRRORED SETS
• (O) POCKET WELT
  • FABRIC – CUT 2
• (P) POCKET FLAP
  • FABRIC – CUT 4

PASADENA PENCIL SKIRT

• (A) BACK
  • FABRIC – CUT 2 MIRRORED
• (B) FRONT
  • FABRIC – CUT 1 ON FOLD
• (C) WAISTBAND
  • FABRIC – CUT 1
• (D) BACK FACING
  • FABRIC – CUT 2 MIRRORED
• (E) FRONT FACING
  • FABRIC – CUT 1 ON FOLD

Sew with a 1/2″ seam allowance for all seams unless otherwise specified.

HOW TO SEW THE JOPLIN JACKET

Step 1 

BACK SEAMS

1. Pin and sew the two side back pieces to the sides of the center back pieces, right sides together.
2. Pin and sew the back waistband to the bottom of the back pieces.
3. Repeat these steps for both the main fabric and the lining pieces.

Step 2

FRONT SEAMS

1. Pin and sew the front waistband pieces to the bottom of the front side pieces, right sides together.
2. Pin and sew the center front pieces to the center side pieces, right sides together. 
3. Pin and sew the yokes to the tops of the shoulders of the front pieces.
4. Repeat the above steps for both the lining and the main fabric pieces.

Step 3

WELT POCKETS

1. Mark the location of the welt pockets with tailor’s chalk on the main fabric.
2. Fold the pocket welts in half longways, wrong sides together.
3. Pin the folded pocket welts to the right side of the main fabric with the raw edges of the faux leather lined up with the center line of the welt pocket marking.
4. Sew the pocket welts on top of the long sides of the perimeter of the pocket welt marking.
5. Cut through the main fabric between the pocket welts following the shape in the photograph below.
6. Pin and sew the pocket bags along the same seam as the pocket welts with the raw edges of each lined up with one another.
7. Flip the welts and pocket bags into the wrong side of the fabric, making sure that all raw edges are tucked into the hole.
8. Pin and sew along the perimeter of the pocket bag to close it.
9. Sew a straight stitch along the top and bottom of the welt pocket to attach the triangular flap of the front of the jacket to the sides of the pocket welts, as shown in the photo below.
10. Repeat these steps for welt pockets on both front pieces of the jacket.

Step 4

POCK FLAPS

1. Pin and sew the two sets of pocket flaps right sides together, leaving one side open to flip them right sides out.
2. Trim the corners of the pocket flaps so that they lay flat when turned right sides out.
3. Top stitch the edges of each pocket flap.
4. Top stitch the pocket flaps with the flat side lined up with the marking on the right side of the front piece of the fabric.
5. Flip the pocket flap down and use a heavy object to hold it in place while sewing the rest of the jacket.

Step 5

SLEEVES & CUFFS

1. Pin and sew the sleeve fronts to sleeve backs, right sides together, leaving a 2 inch gap unsewn on the bottom of the sleeve near the wrist.
2. Fold the pleats into both sleeves according to the markings on the patterns, making sure that the folds of the pleats are leaning towards the gap in the seam.
3. Fold the sleeves in half right sides together and sew the side seam shut.
4. Pin and sew the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, lining up the open ends of the cuff with the open gap at the bottom of the sleeve seam.
5. Top stitch the sleeve cuff.
6. Repeat these steps for both the main fabric and the lining fabric.

Step 6

CONSTRUCT BODY

1. Pin and sew the front shoulder seams to the back shoulder seams.
2. Pin and sew the front side seams to the back side seams.
3. Pin and sew the sleeves into the armscyes, right sides together, ensuring that the front sleeve is aligned with the front of the jacket.
4. Repeat these steps for both the main fabric and the lining fabric

Step 7

TOPSTITCHING

1. Topstitch the front seams of the main jacket so that the seam allowance is folded towards the side seams.
2. Topstitch the back seams so that the seam allowance is folded towards the center back.
3. Topstitch the yoke seams so that both of the seam allowances are facing upwards.
4. Topstitch the front and back waistbands so that the seam allowances are facing downward.

Step 8

COLLARS

1. Pin and sew the rounded edge of the collar to the neckline of the jacket.
2. Repeat for both the main fabric and the lining.

Step 9

PLACKETS

1. Pin both the zipper placket pieces and the button placket pieces right sides together, leaving one side open to be turned right sides out.
2. Trim the corners of the plackets to make it easier to turn them right sides out.
3. Turn the plackets right sides out and topstitch around the sewn edges.

Step 10

SNAPS

1. Mark the locations of the snaps before attaching the lining to the main fabric (two on the collar at the center front, two on the bottom center front, and one on each sleeve cuff).
2. Following the instructions on the snap fastener kit, attach two snap receivers to the bottom center front of the righthand side of the jacket, two receivers to the center top collar of the righthand side of the jacket, and one receiver on each back cuff side on the sleeves.
3. Using the other piece of the snap fastener kit, attach four snap studs to the INSIDE of the button placket (in between the two layers of the button placket – two on top and two on bottom – aligned with the snap receivers on the jacket front.
4. Attach two more snap studs to the sleeve cuffs, one on each side, in between the two layers of the sleeve cuffs so that the snap cap is not visible from the outside of the jacket.

Step 11

SLEEVE CLOSURE

1. Reach in between the lining and the main fabric through the bottom of the jacket and grab the ends of the sleeves on one side of the jacket.
2. Pinch the ends of the lining sleeve and main fabric sleeve so that the part between your fingers is right sides together.
3. Pull the sleeves through the bottom of the jacket and place a pin on the part between your fingers.
4. Place pins around the rest of the sleeve opening until the whole cuff opening is pinned right sides together.
5. Sew around the pinned edge, then flip the sleeve right sides out.
6. Pin the raw edges of the cuff opening towards the inside of the jacket.
7. Topstitch the cuff placket shut with a ½ inch seam allowance.
8. Topstitch the very end of the sleeves so that it lays flat and the inner cuff doesn’t show on the outside of the jacket.
9. Close the snaps at the end of the sleeves.

Step 12

WAISTBAND CLOSURE

1. Flip the jacket inside out.
2. Pin the waistband of the jacket right sides together and sew a straight stitch across the bottom hem.
3. Flip the jacket right sides out.
4. Measure the elastic so that it is snug around your hips. Cut the elastic there and insert it into the bottom of the jacket.
5. Sew two parallel top stitches into the elastic on top of the waistband.

Step 13

FRONT CLOSURE

1. Pin and sew the right hand side of the zipper to the main fabric on the right hand side of the jacket (Note: you only want to attach the zipper to the main fabric so that the raw edge of the fabric and the zipper tape can be hidden away later).
2. Pin and sew the zipper placket to the lining on the right hand side of the jacket.
3. Flip both the zipper and the zipper placket so that the raw edges of the front opening are hidden inside of the jacket between the lining and the main fabric.
4. Topstitch the zipper and placket.
5. Repeat the same steps on the left hand side of the jacket, except for this side, the zipper should be attached right sides together with the lining, and the button placket should be attached right sides together with the main fabric.

Step 14

FINAL TOPSTITCHING

1. Sew a topstitch over the two front center pieces along the hem to ensure that the lining doesn’t stick out of the bottom of the jacket.
2. Fold the neckline of the open collar at the top of the jacket in between the lining and the main fabric by ½ inch.
3. Tuck the remaining length of the zipper into the folded edge of the collar.
4. Topstitch the folded edge of the collar to fully close the jacket.

HOW TO SEW THE PASADENA PENCIL SKIRT

Step 15

SIDE SEAMS

1. Lay the two back skirt pieces on top of the front skirt piece, right sides together.
2. Pin and sew both side seams together.

Step 16

FACING SIDE SEAMS

1. Lay the two back facing pieces on top of the front facing piece, right sides together.
2. Pin and sew the two side seams of the facing together.

Step 17

WAISTLINE

1. Line up the top edge of the facing with the waistline of the skirt, wrong sides together.
2. Pin and sew the facing to the waistline of the skirt with a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Step 18

INVISIBLE ZIPPER

1. Pin one side of the invisible zipper to one side of the opening at the center back of the skirt, right sides together, being sure to catch both the main skirt and the facing in the pins.
2. Sew a straight stitch down that side of the zipper using an invisible zipper foot to get as close to the teeth as possible.
3. Close the zipper to perfectly line up the other side of the zipper tape with the other side of the opening at center back
4. Pin the other side of the zipper right sides together with the other side of the center back.
5. Open the zipper back up before sewing the other side of the zipper, then sew a straight stitch as close to the teeth as possible.

Step 19

SKIRT SLIT

1. Close the zipper.
2. Sew a straight stitch under the end of the zipper to close the seam below the zipper.
3. Iron a ½ inch fold into each side of the center back opening to create the slit.
4. Top stitch both sides of the slit with a ⅜ inch seam allowance.

Step 20

WAISTBAND

1. Iron the long ends of the waistband towards the middle with a 1 inch fold.
2. Fold the entire waistband in half longways and iron it flat.
3. Pin and sew the folded waistband to the waistline of the skirt.
4. Tuck the leftover length of zipper tape into the waistband at the waistline of the skirt.
5. Fold and pin the raw ends of the waistband on both short sides, ensuring that they do not block the closure of the zipper.
6. Top stitch around the entire waistband with a ⅛ inch seam allowance, also sewing over the folded ends by the zipper.

Step 21

HEM

1. I used hem tape to hem the bottom of the skirt because I wanted it to be seamless, but you can absolutely just sew it.
2. Fold the bottom hem of the skirt up by ⅝ inch. 
3. Iron the hem into place.
4. Insert hem tape under the folded hem to secure it into place.

Sewing Success: The Finished Joplin Jacket and Pasadena Pencil Skirt

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