Whether you’re spicing up an old dress or designing something from scratch, trims are a terrific way to add detail to your garments. Small (but game-changing) details are where it’s at this season and we’re taking a look at some simple ways to elevate any project you have on your list. First up: the structured bodice. Structured bodices can be a bit intimidating if you’ve never sewn one before, but adding a bit of ribbon trim along seams or even adding some in where no seams actually exist (as we did with the Elderberry Dress above) is a great way to add some dimension to a dress! Let’s take a look at a few more trim trends we’re expecting to see as we head into the fall.
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 4 yards Campinas Lavender Organic Cotton Gingham – 0.125″
- 2-3 yards Off-White Single Face Velvet Ribbon – 0.375″
- 1 571 Bone 24″ Invisible Zipper
- MDF222 – The Elderberry Dress Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
Alternative Recommended Fabrics:
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Using Trim to Create The Illusion of a Structured Bodice
To do this, you can use just about any type of trim for any kind of garment. Be aware of certain trims that are not curve-friendly, the sharper the curve, the more puckering will occur. To get the structured look, the key is to find a garment with a decent amount of seam lines, like the princess seam. If you cover all your seam lines and it doesn’t look full enough, you can also add trim where seams don’t actually exist, as we did on the dress above at the center front.
Tip: Pin your garment on a dress form and then pin the trim on top to accurately place the trim where it should be.
Tip: Always leave a little extra when pinning as you could end up a little short. Trim and finish the edges after sewing the remainder.
Fringe
Fringe has been popping up all over the place, from bags to clothes, every to hats. Fringe is a style that will never go away! The trim can be applied within the seam or exposed and sewn on top of the garment. Depending on the look you are going for, the more you layer fringe, the denser it will be, and the fewer layers, the dense it will be.
If you want to make your own fringe, you can make it by looping and stitching across the seam. When you reached the end of the seam, cut each loop.
Rhinestones/Beads
When cutting that this type of trim, you should wrap tape on the end or put a dot of glue and then cut. This way, all the beads don’t fall off. When you cut this trim, use scissors that can cut through the metal, not your good sewing ones. If there is a sharp end of the rhinestone, fold it back using small pliers or get sandpaper and shave the sharp edge off.
When applying your rhinestone trim, you could put a small amount of glue to do a temporary hold, or simply hold and sew. Hand sewing is the only sewing method recommended unless the rhinestone is already attached to a piece of fabric. When you hand sew, you can skip every other rhinestone or do every single one.
Tip: If you don’t want to use glue, leave an extra 1.5″ of trim at the end. You will have enough thread to tie a knot.
Lace
Lace is always a gorgeous detail, whether it’s on a hem or a neckline. Depending on what type of lace and where it’s being applied to, you should hand sew rather than machine stitch. Hand sewing will give you a more elegant look.
Tip: When cutting for the seam or hem, cut extra so you can overlap the lace. This helps the lace blend easier.
Tip: If you are gathering lace trim, you will need at least three times the amount of the original length.
Tip: Pin, then baste, then sew. For some types of lace, the pins won’t hold the fabric in place due to the pattern.
Tips on Adding trim to a garment
- For trims that are made from natural fibers, I suggest washing them before applying them to the garment.
- If there is an edge on the trim, like a lip, you can sew that into the seam rather than top-stitching the trim onto the project.
- When adding trim along design lines or seams, cut the trim a little shorter than the length of the design line to reduce bulk.
- On delicate trims, pins can leave holes. Use wonder tape, and binder clips.
- If you choose to sew with your machine, start from one end and do the same for the other side. This helps prevent little puckers in the trim.
- Hand sewing is the best way to apply the trim that is delicate such as lace, velvet, silk, and satin. Sew other trims, such as polyester and more sturdy trims, using your machine. Keep in mind if you are sewing trim with your machine, make sure your needle is sharp.
